Jim & I flew into O'Hare airport this Monday, October 27th, at 9:30 a.m. after leaving Seoul, Korea on Monday, October 27th at 11:40 a.m. It was my first experience with time travel and my body is still trying to figure out what happened to it. I lie in bed at 3:00 a.m., wide awake, my mind going everywhere except to sleep. It's a good time to reflect on all that we saw, did, tasted, observed, felt and experienced in another country, another culture on the other side of the globe.
I kept lists in my head during the ten days we were gone: of things that made me smile (like middle school girls walking arm in arm down city streets), things we could learn from Korea (like bank CEO's who are the first to take pay cuts and also take the blame for the current financial crisis), amazing facts (like quality ginseng must grow for 6 years before harvesting) and (my favorite) the ubiquitous list. This list is in honor of Mary who we teased quite unmercifully about her use of this word when we were in Costa Rica together.
I kept lists in my head during the ten days we were gone: of things that made me smile (like middle school girls walking arm in arm down city streets), things we could learn from Korea (like bank CEO's who are the first to take pay cuts and also take the blame for the current financial crisis), amazing facts (like quality ginseng must grow for 6 years before harvesting) and (my favorite) the ubiquitous list. This list is in honor of Mary who we teased quite unmercifully about her use of this word when we were in Costa Rica together.
#1. Kimchee: a sidedish made from cabbage, garlic, green onions and chili paste which is fermented and then stored. Kimchee can be made of other ingredients as well, and is usually only one of multiple side dishes served with every meal. Now you can purchase all sorts of kimchee at the local supermarkets (which are quite modern, as you can see). Even though you can purchase it at the supermarket, the modern Korean kitchen has a separate refrigerator dedicated just to kimchee. When KJ was a girl her mother would buy 200 heads of cabbage in the fall, make a huge batch of kimchee and store it in a huge crock in the ground. It would be gone by March or April. Jim loved kimchee, which made Young & KJ (our hosts) very happy. KJ told Jim that he must have been Korean in his previous life. When they learned that his middle name is Lee (the most common Korean surname) their suspitions were confirmed.
#2. American music: usually bad
We visited an elementary school near Hyun's home on Wednesday morning. As we walked up the stairs to the second floor I heard a teacher speaking in English and kids repeating phrase by phrase: "There's nothing you can do that can't be done
(there's nothing you can do that can't be done)
Nothing you can sing that can't be sung
(nothing you can sing that can't be sung)"
And I'm thinking to myself, I know that...what poem is that? The teacher continued: "Nothing you can say but you can learn how to play the game. It's easy" at which they all broke out into song: "All you need is love, all you need is love..." I could hardly keep from bursting out laughing, which probably would have seemed rude to our Korean host who wasn't as familiar with the Beatles as the English language teacher from New York who was using the song for his English curriculum for the day. But American music truly is ubiquitous--and not usually of Beatles quality. Generally its schmaltzy 70's-80's music, the same sound track running in every mid-high class restaurant we visited with the lyrics usually in English, occasionally translated into Korean. Must be the popularity of Karaoke...everyone also can sing along!
#3. Cars, cars, cars!
Seoul is a city of 12 million people, and they all seem to be on the road at the same time, though KJ said that's because I have no concept of 12 million people. That's true. We were happy to get out of the city to the countryside, where the other 36 million people live. 48 million people in a country the size of Illinois which is 70% mountains. So nearly all the housing is high density housing, tall apartment/condominium buildings which continue to be built in new developments of not one or two, but hundreds of buildings. And all of this modernization has happened in the last 40+ years. It is mind boggling and it is also hopeful. Young kept saying that Korea is a poor country, that they have no natural resources except human resources, so they rely on ingenuity and hard work. We saw both in spades.
#4. Graciousness and generosity
Before we left for Korea our neighbor, who taught English for a year in Korea, taught us a few Korean phrases, the most important and useful one being : kum sam nee dah (or something like that). It means 'thank-you' and is said with a lilting tone and a little bow. Everywhere we went in Korea people treated us with kindness and generosity. At the mountain restaurant in the picture at the left the woman who cooked our food and served us (and posed with us) brought us a very special offering of marinated mountain mushrooms, which we understood from Young to be a delicacy and not a regular inclusion in their array of side-dishes. Whether we were in a supermarket, an airport, or restaurant, visiting a school or tourist attraction, each person we interacted with was so gracious and helpful. None more than Young & KJ, who made each day of this trip a memory. There are only two other times in our lives that we've experienced anything like this outpouring. One was when we visited Anja's family in Germany and the other was when Maria la Guia Tica shephered us through Costa Rica. I don't believe we deserved that kind of outpouring...from Young & KJ, from Anja's family, from Mary. All I can say is "kum sam nee dah"!




